Friday, September 13, 2013

Burrell's BBQ Review (Carolina Style Barbecue)

Southern California is not short on sunny warm days with cooling breezes.  On this particular perfect day, I ventured to Burrell's BBQ by way of suggestion of a friend.  Prior to my departure, I performed a quick Google search of said establishment.  Burrell's is located in Santa Ana near downtown.  Since I work in Santa Ana a quick drive across the city for lunch is fine for my hour lunch break.  The current reviews I found online and the pictures do not tell the whole story, but I will make an attempt.

Driving to this restaurant feels like you are driving to someone's home.  In fact as I was making my way to Burrell's, I thought my GPS had failed me.  Alas, there is Burrell's around the corner and in the midst of residential housing.  As I drive towards Burrell's I realize there is no parking lot.  Street parking is available but if you visit on Tuesday's read the signs carefully.  Tuesday is street sweeping day near the restaurant.  You will be reminded of street sweeping at the counter of the restaurant.  I found parking fairly easily and made my way to the cardinal red building.  A friendly customer was found holding open the screen door to allow a few fellow patrons in.  I do not smell the familiar odor of barbecue pit smoke as I proceed across the threshold and am wavering in my choice of food for the day.  The entrance consists f double screen doors and behind is a narrow space before a counter the width of the building containing a hot table, tea urns, and the cash register.  I feel like I am a visitor to Burrell's and am not in a restaurant at all. 

As I enter a friendly man behind the counter is explaining the consistency of the barbecue sauce is Carolina style.  For those of you who are not familiar with Southern Barbecue, Carolina style is a vinegar based sauce.  I am not completely opposed to Carolina sauce but prefer the sticky sweet Kansas City style sauce.  With thoughts of Southern Barbecue in my mind, I peruse the menu. 

When I think of Carolina Barbecue, I think of the following meat staples:  pork ribs, pork (pulled or sliced), brisket (pulled or sliced), chicken (pulled or halved), and southern fried catfish.  The only staples I see on the menu are ribs, sliced brisket, and fried fish.  I see many typical California meats like tri-tip  on the menu along with an item I did not expect, gumbo.  Desiring as an authentic experience as possible I opt for the sliced brisket.  The slice brisket lunch is accompanied with corn bread and a choice of side.  Even though the restaurant has a Carolina feel, greens are not listed as a side.  I order the baked beans.  As I order I can not come to terms the friendliness of the gentleman behind the counter.  Of course anyone who compliments my smile is earning bonus points for sure. 

As I wait for my number to be called I find my way to the outside seeing.  Keep in mind there is no indoor seating available   The space in the front of the restaurant can barely accommodate one person walking past another to fill their iced tea or choose a can of soda from the cooler. 

I walk through the screen door and through a chain link gate to the side yard.  In the side yard are a number of picnic tables, a water feature, seemingly retired smokers, potted plants, and trees.  The tables each have their own roll of paper towels which delights me.  Any respectable barbecue establishment will need many a towel to clean the faces of rib gorging patrons.  The atmosphere definitely feels like I am enjoying a barbecue at a friend's house and quickly washes the stressful morning of work away.  I swear I have stepped by into a Florida afternoon and am not near downtown Santa Ana.   After a moment of listening to Michael Jackson and birds singing my order is called.  I venture back in.

My food is sitting atop the counter inside of a Styrofoam take out container with no soda or cutlery in sight.  The friendly man behind the counter sees my confusion, places his caller on hold, and points me to the cooler in the corner of the counter to find my drink.  I find plastic forks, spoons, and knives in trays by the front door on some shelving.  Back out I go with my brisket and soda in hand.




First impress, this looks yummy.  The cornbread is perfectly golden all the way around.  The sauce is a bit on the red side but is expected with Carolina sauce.  The smell is appealing.  I am ready to dig in. 

I start with the cornbread.  The bread is light, flaky, buttery on the top, and does not clump as you chew.  It is a Yankee style which I am happy about because I don't like cornbread that is not sweet.  The cornbread does not fall apart in your hand but is moist and palatable.  I move onto the beans. 

The beans are in good form, not too runny or thick.  The first bite has a snap of vinegar that is quickly balance with the seasonings of the rest of the sauce.  If I were to make Carolina sauce, this is how I would make it.  The vinegar is not overwhelming as I have experienced in the past.  I am missing bits of meat and smoke with the beans.  Don't get me wrong, the beans taste good, they just do not have the smoke pit feel I enjoy.  Next, I try the brisket. 

Upon inspection the meat is sliced at a good thickenss, but I do not see bark on the meat or a smoke ring.  Once I bite in I am wondering if the meat was smoked at all. After finding a whole basil leaf in the midst of the slices, I am convinced the meat was not ever inserted into a smoker.   I am now curious to the reason to have two smokers in view.  The meat is tender and juicy.  The flavor has the same snap as the beans have.  I find the vinegar based sauce balanced well with the seasoning and the meat.  Nothing is worse than ordering meat and only tasting sauce.  The season complimented the brisket.  I nearly finish my meal without feeling like I am putting myself into a food coma and am able to return to work in my allotted hour. 

I am overall impressed with the restaurant.  Of course have learned to set lower standards in the Southern California area.  My below ratings would be vastly different had Burrell's BBQ been located in the true South.  I found the mood of eating outdoors with grass under my feet at a picnic table endearing.  With that said, I will eat here again.

My suggested improvements would include:  seats with backs and not only offering picnic tables for the comfort of those who wish to lounge,smoking the meat, smoking the beans, and adding burnt ends to the beans. 

Ambiance:  4.5
Food taste/quality:  3.0
Overall review:  3.75

The above rating is based on overall appeal of the ambiance, food quality, and food taste on a scale of 0-5.0.  5.0 is the best rating possible




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